The Gentleman's Relish

It's been said that I'm not the very adventurous sort when it comes to food. And this might well be true. I do love my comfort foods, those meals which bring back memories of my childhood and put me in the warm place of memory where our only cares were getting home before dinner time.

But as of late, I've tried to expand my horizons a bit. But I've decided to not do this in that conventional way most Americans tend to do, following the food trends from distant lands, either transplanted directly on our shores or somehow edited for the American palate.

No, I've decided to run the other way in this adventure, exploring my distant past with traditional English and English influence American foods.

This past December, while helping a friend prepare for a traditional hunt breakfast, I came upon a mention of a food, or should I say condiment, known as Patum Peperium or The Gentleman's Relish. Well if you know anything about me, you'll know I was immediately captivated by this condiment and wanted to know more. According to the company, the paste was so closely identified with the gentry, that people asked for Patum Peperium, adding, "You know, the gentleman's relish"

In 19th century London, Gentlemen frequented clubs which were the masters of the savory, Scotch woodcock, mock caviar and Magdalen College butter, all of which contained salted anchovies in one form or another.

Patum Peperium was created in 1828 by John Osborne. While living in Paris, he created this blend of butter, anchovies, together with a secret blend of herbs and spices. This recipe remains a secret today with no single employee knowing the entire recipe. Admittedly, even the sound of these ingredients might be enough to put some people off just by the mere description.

Then you look at the container, you will find, not one, but two warnings to use very sparingly. And once you open the container and see the muddy brown paste your olfactory senses are flooded by what one can only call a slightly off fishy smell. But don't let the initial aroma put you off. If you like caesar salad, then you would be well advised to push on and give this condiment a chance.

Served on hot toast is how the traditionalists recommend it be served, and that is just what I did, two pieces buttered and two pieces un-buttered. To say it is unlike anything I've ever tasted before is quite correct. But to say that the taste is offensive or long lingering would be quite incorrect. To be honest, it was a rather yummy and satisfying addition to the toast. Some might say it is an acquired taste, but for me, perhaps due to my taste for caesar salad, I found it rather pleasant, quite a bit more salty than fishy with a wonderful finish provided by the spices and I now look forward to enjoying it again in the very near future.

It is very rare to find a product on our store shelves today which can claim an uninterrupted history of nearly 200 years. With products that remain sometimes a few months, this longevity alone should be a testament to the quality of Patum Peperium and at least one reason to give it an honest try. At the very least, you'll have gained an insight into the food tastes of our past.

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Beginning the Year with Something Tried and True

When I began this blog a year ago, I started with a post about the Smythson Panama Diary. I've been using one for the past year. And a few weeks ago I placed an order for another. Why? Well, once you've used a Smythson Panama Diary, the reasons are obvious.

 
I'm a fan of pen and ink, and with the variety of electronic organizers, it's nice to be able to quickly pencil, or in my case to pen ,something in my pocket diary.

Today, we have so many different ways to plan our schedules with electronic devices. But unlike so many modern organizers, nothing comes close to the compact size, light weight and elegant appearance as the Panama Diary. With its grained lambskin cover, it is durable, flexible and floppy, capable of being rolled up and squashed without damaging it at all.

The paper within is half the thickness and weight of normal paper. And there really is no paper like it. It was designed to handle the ink of a fountain pen and it does without fail or hesitation.
It's compact size, which easily fits in a suit coat pocket or even the hip pocket of a pair of trousers, is virtually unnoticeable. You can carry it anywhere conveniently. And unlike modern electronic organizers, it won't break if you drop it or need to be charged to be ready at a moments notice.

While I personally have not tired it, Smythson also makes a smaller version of the Panama Diary with a miniature pencil , small enough to fit in a ladies handbag, a specialty they have been making since 1924.

So as we say goodbye to 2012 and hello to 2013, one thing will remain the same. I will continue to keep track of the days ahead using which for year was, remains to me, the height of style and sophistication, the Smythson Panama Diary.

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A trip to Jermyn Street, if only via the Internet....

Every morning I open my wardrobe and begin my daily ritual of dressing for the day ahead. This involves selecting a shirt to wear and while the process in those early morning hours may still be clouded in sleep, they are made much easier by the selection process which has taken months and many times years earlier.

A shirt, while it may seem like a very simple garment, it actually a much more complex item when it is examined closely. The small details which many take for granted, can make the difference between something which simply keeps you covered and something which is a pleasure to wear.

Last year, I decided to make a slight, but in many ways large change in my selection of shirts. As an American I had long bought only American made shirts from American companies. But with the addition of chemicals to shirtings to make them "non-iron" and the movement of production to third world locations, I felt less bound to follow well worn paths to my traditional clothiers. Then with the world media attention focused on London and British style with the wedding of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, I began to draw new inspiration for my wardrobe and my shirts in particular.

There was something about the English semi-cutaway collar and the check shirts which compelled me to explore these things further. Over a year later, I can say I've been very happy with the results and have made English shirts a permanent addition to my wardrobe.

As an American, there are several ways to buy English shirts without having to find your passport and cross the Atlantic. Several English companies have set up shop on the internet and many of the best even come to America a few times a year to take bespoke orders.

One such company is Harvie & Hudson. Recently, I had the chance to ask Richard Harvie, grandson of founder Thomas Harvie, a few questions about their shirts and what make them different from other shirts available on the American market today.

Thomas Harvie was the managers of the now defunct "Jermyn Street Shritmakers," where Andrew Hudson was the shirt fitter and pattern maker. They were good friends and decided to make a go of things on their own and opened their first shop in Duke Street, just around the corner from the current location, in 1949. Today, Harvie and Hudson remains a family business who see things more on a long term basis than large corporations looking to make their shareholders happy that quarter. Shirt making is more than a job for them, it is a way of life.

Jermyn Street, current home to Harvie and Hudson, is famous for its shirt makers. And Harvie and Hudson epitomize the Jermyn Street shirt, a hand made garment, even when it is off the shelf. It's not about the label on the outside, but rather it's obvious in its richness and shape. They retain the details of fine shirt making which have been left behind by inexperienced buyers and accountants who see shortcuts as a means to increase profits at the buyers expense. Many of the attributes of a good off the rack shirt are similar to the bespoke shirt. They both should have good shell buttons, interlining and above all good quality fabric.

The shirts of Harvie and Hudson cannot help but be English, it's in their heritage. Their classic English shirt has a hand turned non-fused collar top, non-fused cuffs, a raised placket front, shell buttons and a long tail. This long tail, longer in the back than the front, is one feature I have never found in any American shirts and one which I find very appealing. The shirt is also made of pure cotton without the easy care chemicals. While these chemicals in shirts may be popular today, the shirt never looks as crisp as one back from the laundry and always seems to retain body heat and leave you feeling too hot with no means of escape.

The semi-cutaway collar is also a distinctly English look which characterizes many of Harvie and Hudson shirts. It is one of the features of their shirts which brought my wardrobe selections to London via the internet.

Also, the lining of the shirt are relatively sturdy to allow a good look when worn open or worn with a necktie, avoiding the look of a man falling apart which comes from "limp" linings. The cuffs too are quite sturdy, but not too tight, with a deep turnback cuff completing the English look. I myself tend to still gravitate towards the button cuff, but there is nothing sharper than a Harvie and Hudson turnback cuff with a pair of elegant or sharp cuff links.

While I have never had the privileged of buying a bespoke shirt myself, Richard Harvie did provide me with some insight to how they differ from the off the shelf version. Not many people are a "perfect size," as represented by the collar and sleeve length of off the shelf shirts. We tend to be very fit or not so fit, presenting challenges to find a perfect fitting shirt. This is  where the experienced craftsmen of Harvie and Hudson, with years of experience, can draft a pattern which will make any man look good in a bespoke shirt. He's seen it all before and can make a custom pattern with ease. In addition to the custom fit, a bespoke shirt gives you the choise of about 2500 fabrics, any style of collar and cuff, in addition to many other details, allowing the customer to exercise his individuality, no matter what the current off the rack trend is this year.

So if you are looking to try something new, to stretch your wardrobe in a new direction, take a look at Harvie and Hudson. I have not been disappointed and neither will you. Their customer service is exceptional and a shirt order for off the shelf shirts arrives on my doorstep just two days later with their standard shipping.

They will be in America from October 12th through October 20th, visiting Chicago, Washington and New York as part of the American Trunk Show. More information can be found here:

http://www.harvieandhudson.com/content/Information/Corporate_Info/American_Trunk_Show

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Return of the Summer Whites...

Not too long ago, summer whites were a ritual of summer. They were once a common sights while relaxing and trying to stay cool during those hot summer months which seem to plague much of the East Coast of America.

Today there are still some places where summer whites are still required. Since 1877, The All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet club has required all white, or mostly white clothing to be worn. The only major tennis tournament still played on grass and without advertising around the courts, the Championships, known to most of the world as Wimbledon, is a annual reminder of the traditional white attire of summer sport and recreation.

Even today, there are some places in America which still require that white clothing be worn on tennis courts and croquet courts. And though these may not be easy to find, it does not mean the lack of such requirements is a prohibition to wear them where they are not required.

Now with summer officially upon us, there can be no doubt that white clothing is appropriate to wear and enjoy. An on the tennis or croquet court or off, there is a simple elegance about summer whites.

White bucks are the classic white summer shoe. Made of buckskin which is actually specially treated leather to give it a suede-like appearance and it dyed white. The soles of the shoes are traditionally made of brick red rubber and a "chalk bag" is used to keep the shoes white, rather than traditional polishes and cremes.

The traditional white summer trouser ranges from white ducks to white poplin. 

White ducks are made using cotton duck, which is a fairly heavy plainly woven cotton cloth. While rather versatile in the more northern summer seacoast communities and mountain lake vacation spots, white ducks are much too heavy to wear in those areas in further south.

White poplin trousers and perhaps the best solution for summer white is those places where the heat and humidity of summer seem almost oppressive at times. A pair of these made of 5.9 ounce poplin cotton is the perfect way to stay stylish and cool during the summer.

So, while the rest of the world might have abandoned the idea of the summer whites, I still hold on to them and one more symbol of a slower pace of life where those long hot days of summer are meant to be enjoyed and savored as they once where when we were younger.

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Long Live The Queen!

It is at times like today when even the average American feels a sense of awe and wonder at the British Monarchy.

Today, Her Majesty The Queen, celebrates the Diamond Jubilee of her reign. She is the second longest British Monarch, with only Queen Victoria having reigned longer.

Since 1952, Queen Elizabeth has reigned over the United Kingdom, a constant symbol of national identity, through a variety of political changes in the British government between the Tory and Labour Parties. Yet, regardless of national political dominance in Parliament, The Queen has remained a constant symbol and reminder of British national identity.

As an American, I like many fellow Americans, have a great respect and admiration for Queen Elizabeth, and her incredible ability to make herself both regal and accessible to the general public.

She is a grand example of a true modern monarch, not someone stuck in the past, but in touch with the present and looking towards the future.

So, on this day, I'd simple like to say, "Long Live The Queen."

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Wholemeal At Its Heart...

Every now and then, you find something which is best described as a comfort food. It might be a taste from your childhood, or it might just be something which is so un-pretentious and down to earth that you can only relax when you consume it.

McVitie's Digestives are just such a comfort food.

A digestive biscuit, originally known as a Wheaten, is sometimes referred to as a sweet-meal biscuit and is a semi-sweet biscuit which originated in the United Kingdom. It is probably closest to the graham cracker in America, though the graham cracker is a typically a bit dryer and more brittle. They were originally known as Digestive biscuits because their high baking soda/sodium bicarbonate content was thought to aid in digestion.

In 1830, Robert McVitie opened a provision shop in Edinburgh and ran his baking operation in the basement. Alexander Grant came to work at McVitie's in 1887 and five years later created McVitie's Digestive. For over over 100 years that same secret recipe has been used to the delight of millions.

McVitie's Digestive is uniquely delicious, with its sweet wheaty taste and distinctive size making it one of the most popular British biscuits today.

Whether enjoyed crunched or dipped in a cup of tea, it is a familiar sight across the UK. But be warned to not dunk it too long in your tea, or it will tend to fall apart.

I can't think of a more perfect accompaniment to a cold or rainy day than the comfort of one of these biscuits. Not too sweet, not too dry, not to crispy, they are the perfect way to enjoy a quiet moment of relaxation during any day.

More information can be found at McVitie's

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And This is Timber Racing!

When the last two Saturdays arrive in Baltimore, there is a part of the city whose focus is not on the American pastime of baseball, but rather an earlier and much deeper and British connection to the turf and horse racing. 

I must say, the Grand National is one of my favorite races. For the money, a general admission pass will give you three great races viewed from a hillside with a picnic basket and a waterproof picnic blanket. This is a hard value to beat when it comes to racing and the view of the course.

2012 Grand National

The Grand National began in 1898 when several young men who wanted to compete in the Maryland Hunt Cup, but were too young to enter. All the riders were under 16 and rode ponies, except for one horse. The race was run over 2 1/2 miles near Chattolanee Hotel near the Golf Course of the present Green Spring Valley Club. As the riders became older, the age limit was raised so they could continue to participate. 

The race continued to be run over various courses in the Green Spring Valley through 1917, with the lengthening to 3 miles in 1906 and averaging 15 to 20 fences plus ditches and even streams. 

With a brief hiatus due to World War I, the race resumed in 1920 at Five Farms, the estate of Stuart Oliver, until the property was sold in Baltimore Country Club for their new golf course. 

In 1925 the Grand National moved to Brooklandwood, the estate of Captain Isaac Emerson, now the site of St. Paul's School at the corner of Falls Road and Green Spring Valley Road, where it remained through 1934. This 3 mile course consisted of 15 fences averaging 4'1" high and also had a water jump. 

2012 Grand National

Another move was in store for the race, this time to Hereford Farms at the corner of York road and Piney Hill Road, just south of Hereford, where the race was run from 1935 until 1941, when World War II again interrupted racing. The Hereford Farms course was 1 1/2 miles long run twice around and had 16 fences to be negotiated. It was also here that the first subscriber fee was introduced to watch the races. 

With the war over, the Grand National was once again resumed in 1946, this time in its final and current location, Western Run Valley and the farms of the Griswold and Fenwick families. The 3 mile course consisted of 18 fences, 2 board and 16 rail, ranging from 3'9" to 4'2" high.

While the Grand National is often compared to the Maryland Hunt Cup, there are distinct differences, the Grand National is a shorter race, resulting in faster racing. The Hunt Cup is the real test of a horses endurance.

This isn't your average horse race. The horses, averaging 10-13 years old race over 22 fences, 4 board and 18 rail, ranging in height from 2'11" at the water jump to 4'10" at the number 16 fence. And that is it, one race! It is an entire afternoon spent picnicking and tailgating. The only vendors present are selling the race program and race caps and t-shirts. There is no other commercial activity and no commercial advertising present anywhere. How many other horse racing events are only based around one race? And how many major sporting events are still void of corporate sponsorships? I can't think of anywhere else I'd rather be on the last Saturday in April.

13th Fence at the 2012 Maryland Hunt Cup

The Maryland Hunt Cup began in 1894 when the members of the Elkridge Hunt challenged members of Green Spring Valley Hunt to a timber race on Dr. William Lee's property near Stevenson Station in the Green Spring Valley and heading east finishing near George Brown's race track at Brooklandwood, a distance of 4 miles. The first race was limited to members of those two clubs, but the next year the race was opened to members of any fox hunt in Maryland, and in 1903, members from recognized hunts throughout the United States and Canada were invited to participate.

The next year the race began at Hampton Gate on Dulaney Valley Road, a mile north of Towson, and ran over a circular course of about 4 1/8 miles. In 1896, the race returned to the Green spring Valley, starting at Brooklandwood and running a distance of a little less than 5 miles. It remained in that area one last time in 1897, starting in a field directly north of Brooklandville Station on the east side of Falls Road.

In 1898 the race moved near Cockeysville, starting and ending at Gerar, the country home of E. Gittings Merryman, near Cockeysville and the following year to “Long Green,” the country seat of W.S.G. Williams. The house at Gerar was demolished by 1962 to make way for Marriott's Hunt Valley Inn, with the remainder of the property becoming part of the Hunt Valley Industrial Park and Long Green would become part of the Deford/Boordy Vineyard Estate.

The race returned to the Green Spring Valley in 1900 and 1901 before moving to R.M. Dennison’s farm, Salona in Timonium in 1902. 

Then in 1903, the race started 1/4 mile north of Towson, directly east of York Road, and finishing at Hampton.

In 1904, the Hunt cup returned form one last run in the Green Spring Valley, site of its birth ten years earlier, where it remained through 1914, running over a number of owners properties.

In 1915, the Hunt Cup left the Green Spring Valley for good, never to return. That year it was run for the first time in the Worthington Valley, starting and finishing at Merberne Manor Farm, the home of G. Bernard Fenwick, where it remained through 1918. Since the Fenwick Farm was entirely fenced in wire, the race committee had to build panel fences in order to run the race.

With the Fenwick Farm being planed in corn in 1919, the race moved back to Hampton in Dulaney Valley for two years before moving to Five Farms, country home of Stuart Oliver, for the 1921 race, that last race to be run outside Worthington Valley.

Finish Line at the 2012 Maryland Hunt Cup

In 1922, the Hunt Cup returned to the Worthington Valley and Snow Hill, the home of Charles L.A. Heiser, and the present Hunt Cup course. Since that time, the course has remained fixed, with only the names of the property owners changing over the years.

The present course was originally laid out by G. Bernard Fenwick and Thomas Disney and has stood the test of time, still providing perhaps the most challenging and well know steeplechase course on either side of the Atlantic. It is this race, and this race alone which receives regular mention in British Steeplechase racing circuits and for good reason.

So the last Saturday in April each year, I make the trek to Worthington Valley to join my friends and many strangers and watch one of the greatest spectacles in Steeplechase racing. I wouldn't have it any other way!

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