The Gentleman's Relish

It's been said that I'm not the very adventurous sort when it comes to food. And this might well be true. I do love my comfort foods, those meals which bring back memories of my childhood and put me in the warm place of memory where our only cares were getting home before dinner time.

But as of late, I've tried to expand my horizons a bit. But I've decided to not do this in that conventional way most Americans tend to do, following the food trends from distant lands, either transplanted directly on our shores or somehow edited for the American palate.

No, I've decided to run the other way in this adventure, exploring my distant past with traditional English and English influence American foods.

This past December, while helping a friend prepare for a traditional hunt breakfast, I came upon a mention of a food, or should I say condiment, known as Patum Peperium or The Gentleman's Relish. Well if you know anything about me, you'll know I was immediately captivated by this condiment and wanted to know more. According to the company, the paste was so closely identified with the gentry, that people asked for Patum Peperium, adding, "You know, the gentleman's relish"

In 19th century London, Gentlemen frequented clubs which were the masters of the savory, Scotch woodcock, mock caviar and Magdalen College butter, all of which contained salted anchovies in one form or another.

Patum Peperium was created in 1828 by John Osborne. While living in Paris, he created this blend of butter, anchovies, together with a secret blend of herbs and spices. This recipe remains a secret today with no single employee knowing the entire recipe. Admittedly, even the sound of these ingredients might be enough to put some people off just by the mere description.

Then you look at the container, you will find, not one, but two warnings to use very sparingly. And once you open the container and see the muddy brown paste your olfactory senses are flooded by what one can only call a slightly off fishy smell. But don't let the initial aroma put you off. If you like caesar salad, then you would be well advised to push on and give this condiment a chance.

Served on hot toast is how the traditionalists recommend it be served, and that is just what I did, two pieces buttered and two pieces un-buttered. To say it is unlike anything I've ever tasted before is quite correct. But to say that the taste is offensive or long lingering would be quite incorrect. To be honest, it was a rather yummy and satisfying addition to the toast. Some might say it is an acquired taste, but for me, perhaps due to my taste for caesar salad, I found it rather pleasant, quite a bit more salty than fishy with a wonderful finish provided by the spices and I now look forward to enjoying it again in the very near future.

It is very rare to find a product on our store shelves today which can claim an uninterrupted history of nearly 200 years. With products that remain sometimes a few months, this longevity alone should be a testament to the quality of Patum Peperium and at least one reason to give it an honest try. At the very least, you'll have gained an insight into the food tastes of our past.

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