Requiem for Bill's Khakis...?

I first discovered Bill's Khakis about 10 years ago at a small shop in Baltimore. A brand that had been around for about 15 years already, located in a renovated hardware factory in downtown Reading, Pennsylvania, it produced quality men's trousers as its backbone. These were American made, with a quality reminiscent of the American khaki uniform trousers of World War II.

But something happened. Most people, probably most customers, didn't even notice, but some of their retailers knew something was afoot. In June 2014 Source Capital, became involved with Bill's Khakis, presumably to provided needed funding. Bill's had begun an aggressive direct to consumer sales and marketing program. Previous to this, Bill's was available at a number of small independent men's clothing stores, but now the customer could order directly from Bill's for the same price. This meant Bill's would get not only their normal wholesale cut, but also the retail profit which is typically 50% of the cost of clothing. Not a bad deal for Bill's, but this meant they were now in direct competition with the very same independent retailers which had built the brand for over 20 years.

I didn't pay much attention personally, that is until this Fall. Suddenly Bill's was on sale. I don't mean a little sale, but over 50% off direct from the manufacturer sales. A pair of $185 trousers for only $85. This meant Bill's was now selling to the public for less than their own retailers (yes some still remain even with the direct sales) could buy the product. December 4th they were selling their original twill trousers for over 65% off retail price. I decided to give it a whirl and tried to order a pair, I mean how could I pass that by. But the website was only showing the trousers for 50% off, not the advertised $45. Later that evening I tried again. The price worked, but once I added the product to the shopping cart, I went to checkout out the the cart was empty. I tried again and again, adding to the cart and then finding it empty. I gave up.

Next day they were on sale again, this time for 70% off. Again the same website results, but now I was really curious...

What I missed on December 4th was the announcement that Source Capital had bought Bill's Khakis for an undisclosed amount according the Reading Eagle. Furthermore Source Capital had partnered with NEJ Inc. NEJ Inc specializes in excess inventory solutions for retailers and brands of apparel.

I then went to the clothing blogs and have found them ripe with rumour to include everything from restructuring to brand liquidation.

According to one online source speaking with an employee over the phone in the warehouse:
- The company was sold about a month ago
- Their previous investor pushed growth aggressively, which led to the explosion of their product line and overall drop in quality
- Bill's had no capital in order to buy the goods and the bottom fell out
- Their previous investor refused to inject any capital into the brand and then the bottom REALLY fell out
- The recent liquidation is an attempt by the new owners to regain whatever capital they can
- The liquidation, coupled with the holidays, has their customer service department completely overloaded. They've just abandoned checking the email account because it's overflowing so don't bother sending a message.
- They have very little left on the shelves. They are completely out of anything in khaki.
All in all, the source seemed hopeful that some semblance of the brand's former glory will be reclaimed once they get over this "hump" and the source believes the new owner understands the market for Bill's.

The fact remains that Bill Thomas seems to have gotten greedy here in a move to increase his profits and distribution at the expense of his long time retail supporters. It will be a shame to see this American made brand disappear if that is the case, all in the name of profit. And it is the customer and the low level employees who will lose in the end.

If the worst of the rumours are true, it may very well be the Requiem for Bill's Khakis. And for that I am sad.

Edit: According to a footnote placed on January 5, 2016 on the Bill's Khaki's website, on November 18, 2015, BK Acquisition, LLC (BK Acquisition) purchased substantially all of the assets of W.Thomas Co.(d/b/a Bills Khakis) through a sale conducted in accordance with Article 9 of the Pennsylvania Uniform Commercial Code (UCC).

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Needlepoint Belts Aren't for Everyone, But We Like it That Way....

Needlepoint belts aren't for everyone, but for those who love them, there is simply no substitute. But they don't come cheaply....

There are three basic routes to getting your own, make it yourself, get someone to make one for you, or buy one. The going rate for a pre-made needlepoint belt is $165 as offered by Smathers and Branson. Sounds expensive?

Smathers and Branson University of Delaware Needlepoint Belt with Monogram

Well let's take a look at the other options.... To make your own needlepoint belt you are probably looking at $150 in materials and in the neighborhood of 100 hours of labour. Think about how much your time is worth and we are talking about a pretty expensive belt in terms of materials and time, not to mention the practice needed before even attempting such a project. Of course if you are very fortunate to have someone make one for you, you have to remember how much the loved one has spent in time and effort to make a belt for you.

So when we look at the other options, $165 is not really a bad option and their "stock" options for belts are wide and varied, not to mention "custom" belts which they make for a variety of retailers around the country. Now surely you can't get the true custom belt like you might from a family member or girlfriend, but those options exist at some level with Smathers and Branson with their monogrammed belts and custom "life belts" both available with with additional charges.

Smathers and Branson Custom Belt for Yoicks!

These belts are made in Vietnam where they pay women more than the prevailing wages there to make these needlepoint belts for the American market.

So if you are looking for a special gift for someone, ore something fun to add to your own wardrobe, consider Smathers and Branson and their needlepoint belts.

For more information see Smathers and Branson

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The Foxhall Farm Team Chase... When The Steeplechase Season Begins in Maryland...

In less than two weeks, the Maryland Timber Racing Season will begin with that quiet and quite unknown race, the Foxhall Farm Cup Team Chase. A very different race from what most racing enthusiasts are used to seeing, this race is perhaps best known for the mammoth team trophy which dwarfs most other racing trophies.

2011 Foxhall Farm Cup Team Chase Winning Team from the Green Spring Valley Hunt

This race began in 1920 over timber at the Monkton, Maryland home of renowned American sportsman, Foxhall P. Keene. His intent was to encourage participation in the sport. The race is run by teams of three, all regular followers of a recognized hunt, with strong representation from the Maryland and Pennsylvania Hunts. To honor the winning team, Keene commissioned a challenge cup which was to be held by the victorious hunt until the next renewal if the race. Made of sterling silver, it is one of the most impressive trophies in the sport.

Taking place early in the season, it is regularly postponed a week, as it was this year, or even cancelled by late arriving snows, but look forward to once again attending this year. When I last attended, the race was held on a brisk sunny early Spring afternoon at the Green Spring Valley Hunt Club, current holders of the trophy. I can't think of a more perfect place to be on such a spring day, but this is certainly not a race for those more familiar with races as a social event. The "glamour crowd" tends to pass this event by and the tents and lush tailgate spreads are no where to be seen. There is no champagne. It's a very simple affair and I can't say that I miss any of that at all.

Retired Lawyer and former steeplechase jockey Turney McKnight explained the race best in a 2009 Washington Post article, "the Foxhall race is really more of a training ground." "The jockeys want to practice but not overexercise the steeds," McKnight further explained.

2011 Foxhall Farm Cup Team Chase

Many of the horses which run here will be seen competing in Maryland's triple crown of Steeplechase, My Lady's Manor, Grand National and Maryland Hunt Cup, as well as races further afield like Carolina Cup and Virginia Gold Cup.

So whether you position yourself at the start/finish area, or at one of the fences along the course, you will be treated to a chance to watch some beautiful horses in some beautiful hunt country.

While attendance at the race is free, the Green Spring Valley Hunt were wonderful hosts after the race, with a donation request from non-participants.

This might not be a race that gets much attention, it has definitely earned a place upon my calender and where I will be found on Sunday, March 22nd, if the weather and my busy Spring schedule permits.

Check out the Maryland Steeplechase Association website for more information:
http://www.marylandsteeplechaseassociation.com/race-meets/the-foxhall-farm-trophy-chase/

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Christmas Memories with Christmas Tree....

For everyone there are certain things which remind them of Christmas. It can be foods, smells, experiences or things, but each one brings back memories of Christmas past and without them, the holiday is somewhat lacking.

For me, one of those things is the Christmas Tree china from Spode.

Spode Christmas Tree China

Photo Courtesy Spode

Introduced in 1938, this pattern was one of the most important designs for the Spode Company. In May 1938, Sydney Thompson, sales agent for Spode in America wanted a new design for the Christmas season. Thomas Hassall, art director for Spode asked Harold Holdway, one of the Spode designers to produce a design. Holdway created a plate with a central design of a Christmas Tree with presents hanging from the branches.

After a few revisions to the design, salesmen were swamped with orders. Over the following years, the Christmas Tree pattern developed into an entire table setting as well as extra serving pieces. While the most common border of the plate is a green band, it had also been available with a red band,

About 1962, the pattern switched from transfer printing and hand-painting to slide-off lithography.

For years this china has symbolized Christmas gatherings for many Americans and is the worlds most recognized holiday design. But despite its popularity, the Spode factory closed in 2009 and today, new production is made in China.

Personally, I think the Chinese production is not as warm as the English china. Am I biased? Perhaps, but thankfully there is still a market for the English made Christmas Tree china, and I seek it out when I can, leaving the new Chinese pieces for others.

So with December upon us, once again the beloved Christmas Tree china has made its appearance. And last years regulars are now augmented by new finds and additions to brighten the holiday and bring back memories of Christmas past.

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Running and Staying Warm in the Cold...

Winter is one of the toughest times to start running. Between the cold temperatures and the slick running surfaces, it is enough to drive even the most dedicated runner indoors. And for the beginning runner there is the added expense of winter running gear. But for those of you who have decided to run as a result of a New Year's resolution, or are continuing to run as part of a new found desire to get healthier, there a few things you will need to make this time of the year a bit more bearable when running.

As I have said before, and I cannot say this enough, begin by spending your money wisely on the most important part of your running gear, your shoes. Find a good running store. This is not the time to try and save a few dollars ordering something online or at the mall store where the person who is selling shoes is as likely to be running as I was a year ago. Find a serious and friendly running store. They should not only fit you properly for shoes, but also have you run in the shoes so they can help fit you as well so you can find the best shoe for your feet. And think foot comfort before you start worrying about how they look. Spend your money well here and you will at least be taking care of your feet and body. I'm not going to talk about my shoes, because they are just that, my shoes and they work for me, but they may not work for everyone.

As the weather starts to get cold, you will find those clothes you wore in the the cool days of fall just are not enough to keep you warm, especially when you are standing around waiting for a winter run to begin. This past weekend I participated in an 8k with a temperature of 28F at the race start at 7am and only 32F at 8am after I'd finished. What I wore kept me warm enough at the start to be comfortable, but not too warm. By about the second mile I'd worked up a sweat, and with zippers was about to cool down a bit. By the time I finished the modern fabrics dried out quickly enough that I was able to keep warm without developing a chill. So With that in mind, I'll give a bit of a run down on what I wear for these cold days.

For these cold days I pull out the Balega Trail Buster 2 Quarter socks which cover the ankles and offers some nice warmth when you need it. Made with a combination of Drynamix Polyester, Arylic, Wool, Nylon and Elastane, these socks kept my feet dry and warm throughout my run as well as afterwards. With no seams to rub between your foot and shoe, combined with cushioning on the bottom and mesh construction on the top for ventilation, these are my sock of choice. 

When it gets this cold, I turn in my shorts for a pair of Nike Pro Combat Core Compressions Shorts combined with the Saucony Boston Pant.

The combination of the two layers gives me the warmth that I need without being bulky or too warm once I've started running. And while I may feel cool for a few minutes after the run, that does not last long and I am quite comfortable. The Saucony Boston Pants are semi-fitted so they are not tights, but also not baggy and loose like traditional sweat pants. Featuring two side seam pockets with zippers, they are well designed to carry what you need for your run or race.

With the 28F temperature at the start of the race, I decided to layer, three layers to be exact. All technical fabrics to hopefully wick away moisture as I began the race, but keep me warm and dry both before and after the race. My base layer was a long sleeve running shirt which was a race premium at my first December race, the Asics Thermopolis LT Crew. A super soft shirt which offers exceptional comfort and dries quickly after a run.

For my middle layer I added another race premium, this from my second December race, the Asics Lite-Show Favorite 1/2 zip. With thomb loops and a pocket for your iPod, this would probably be enough if I didn't need to stand around both before and after the race.

For the outer layer I wore a simple black North Face 1/4 zip. I wish I could say more about the model, but I haven't a clue what the model is called. It lacks pockets, but is a great jacket for those very cold days.

To top things off I wear the Mizuno Breath Thermo gloves and beanie. Designed to turn body moisture into heat for added warmth, they are excellent for keeping hands and head warm during a run, as well as before and after.

This year I've misplaced my Mizuno beanine and had to buy a hat at the runner's expo before the race. I picked up a Frank Shorter Thermal Running Hat. It certainly did the job and I was very glad I picked it up.

And as before, I'd also recommend having a few days worth of running clothes available. With three days of running gear on hand, I have fewer excuses to not run. While you may only need one outer layer, you should try to have multiple sets of those layers which come into direct contact with your skin. You can spend a fortune on running clothes, but if you shop smart you can save quite a bit of money. Even looking at the websites of the manufacturers you can find clothes at half of retail. And if you sign up for races, they usually have a "race premium" which is usually a shirt. This not only adds to your small collection of running clothes, but provides that training incentive to run regularly.

Remember to spend your money and invest wisely in a quality pair of shoes from a good running store, and then spend your money on your clothes.

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The perfect time to start running, Fall...

Summer and Winter have to be the two toughest times of the year to get started running for a new runner. If the lack of physical conditioning isn't enough to contend with, there is the heat and cold of the hottest and coldest times of the year. But now, in the Fall or equally so in the Spring is perhaps the best time of the year to begin running for someone like myself who had not seriously exercised in years.

As I have said before, begin by spending your money wisely on the most important part of your running gear, your shoes. Find a good running store. This is not the time to try and save a few dollars ordering something online or at the mall store where the person who is selling shoes is as likely to be running as I was a year ago. Find a serious and friendly running store. They should not only fit you properly for shoes, but also have you run in the shoes so they can help fit you as well so you can find the best shoe for your feet. And think foot comfort before you start worrying about how they look. Spend your money well here and you will at least be taking care of your feet and body. I'm not going to talk about my shoes, because they are just that, my shoes and they work for me, but they may not work for everyone.

As the weather starts to cool, you will find those clothes you wore in the hottest days of the year are perhaps a bit too cool for much of your run.

As the temperature cools, I will pull out the Balega Enduro 2 Quarter socks which cover the ankles and offers a bit more warmth when you want it. With no seams to rub between your foot and shoe, combined with cushioning on the bottom and mesh construction on the top for ventilation, these are my sock of choice. 

When it comes to shorts, I prefer a pair which has a built in liner. I wear boxers so it seemed silly to go buy underwear when so many pairs of shorts offer either built in liners or built in compression shorts. In the fall months I've selected the Saucony Throttle Shorts. These have built in compression shorts and are great for cooler days when it is still warm enough to wear shorts, but too warm to wear anything more.

And with these cooler temperatures, my long sleeve running shirt of choice is one which was a race premium at my first December race, the Asics Thermopolis LT Crew. A super soft shirt which offers exceptional comfort and dries quickly after a run.

Occasionally you need a bit more than just a shirt in the early mornings or evenings. In this case I pull out another race premium, this from my second December race, the Asics Lite-Show Favorite 1/2 zip. With thomb loops and a pocket for your iPod, this will be sure to keep you warm enough for most cooler fall runs.

I'd also recommend having a few days worth of running clothes available. With three days of running gear on hand, I have fewer excuses to not run. You can spend a fortune on running clothes, but if you shop smart you can save quite a bit of money. Even looking at the websites of the manufacturers you can find clothes at half of retail. And if you sign up for races, they usually have a "race premium" which is usually a shirt. This not only adds to your small collection of running clothes, but provides that training incentive to run regularly.

Remember to spend your money and invest wisely in a quality pair of shoes from a good running store, and then spend your money on your clothes.

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These Aren't Your Average Beans...

The are some things in this world that get little if any mention at all. We take them for granted or ignore them entirely. Beans are one of those things. Perhaps it is one too many experiences with the unremarkable which cause us to look at them as unmentionable. But when they are done right, they can be really tasty and one of the comfort foods which keep us warm on a dreary day.

Heinz were first produced in 1901, and continued production in America until 1928. In the UK however, they became and remain an iconic British staple, part due to the fact that between 1941 and 1948 the Ministry of Food classified beans as essential in the rationing system.

I haven't tried the original myself, but when I saw a can of Heinz Curry Beanz for sale, I was more than a little curious. They are the original beans with the addition of curry.

So on a rainy Sunday, which rummaging about in the pantry for something to eat for lunch, I decided it was the time to try these curry beans.

This was a very pleasant surprise. And indeed the prefect treat for a chilly rainy day. I'd never have suspect the flavour combinations would have worked, but there I was enjoying a rather exotic flavour combination for American palates.

So if you happen to come across a tin, give it a try, you will be pleasantly surprised!

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