Cordings Tweed.... The Perfect Kit for the Fall Season

In an earlier blog post, I mentioned a visit I made to a shop in Piccadilly which I'd not previously had a chance to investigate. As I mentioned, it had been more than a few years since my last visit to London and after some friendly recommendations to visit the shop, it became a must visit this past March while I was in London. My quest was tweed. I have owned a few tweed sports jackets over the years, but this quest was slightly different. This was a quest for the elusive tweed suit. I say elusive from an American perspective. You just don't see tweed suits this side of the pond. I'm not sure why, perhaps it is the climate, personal preference, who knows, but that fact remains, tweed suits are not easily found. Thus with a trip to London on the horizon, finding one was on my list for that visit.

Founded in 1839, J.C. Cording & Company began business as an outfitter and waterproofer. By 1843, Cordings was selling the Mackintosh, which is still sold today. This is a waterproof coat made possible by Charles Mackintosh who perfecting the process of dissolving rubber and binding it to cotton to allow the creation of waterproof garments. They moved into their current location at 19 Piccadilly in 1877.

Cordings was awarded a Royal Warrant in 1909 as waterproofers to the Prince of Wales, and future King George V. In 1922, the Prince of Wales, and future Duke of Windsor adopted Cordings as one of his outfitters. It was at this time that their famous Newmarket boots were patented, boots which were made for Elizabeth, mother of the current Queen Elizabeth, the Duke of Windsor, and Mrs Simpson. Unfortunately, Cordings no longer makes these waterproof canvas and leather boots. But it was this time in the 1920s and 30s that Cordings established five core items which they are still known for to this day, the covert coat, Mackintosh, tweed jackets, corduroy and Moleskin trousers, and Tattersall shirts.

In 2003, after weathering the Second World War, the post war years, the rejection of tradition, and the years of outsourcing production from the UK by man businesses, the current management team approached their best customer, Eric Clapton, and asked if he would assist them in a management buyout. “I first became aware of Cordings in my mid-teens,” Clapton explains. “I come from the country and it was the highlight of our week to come up to London and listen to the musicians. It was difficult to get home late, so I would spend that time till dawn just walking the West End. I remembered Cordings. It stuck in my mind as a place of tradition; the heritage of England.”

So, upon my arrival in London, Cordings was my first stop after visiting with family. Upon entering, I was directed downstairs to the gentlemens department, filled with Tattersall Shirts and Tweed. The staff was friendly and extremely helpful. I'd done some research online before my arrival and was already decided on their House Check Tweed. 

The jacket is made of 14 ounce 100% Scottish Tweed woven exclusively for Cordings, and features a three button front, with a single back vent, working four button cuffs, and a ticket pocket. As I mentioned in the previous article, for those who might not be familiar with the "working cuff" this simple means that the cuff button are not decorative, they really do unbutton. And like the linen jacket which I wrote about earlier, this jacket features is functional lapel button hole which allows you to add a lapel pin or flower, as the back of the lapel features loops to secure the lapel flower stem. Small details that many do not notice or even feel they are missing, but details which set this jacket apart from the rest of the crowd.

The trousers are also made of the same 14 ounce 100% Scottish Tweed, are half lined in 100% cotton, and feature a pleated front and button fly.

The weight of this fabric is wonderful, and something not seen in many American off the peg suits with their wispy fabric to attempt to create a four season suit but creates a suit not suitable for much. This is a weighty suit, though not the heaviest weight Cordings offers. This is exceptional for the cooler days of Fall and Spring and excellent for Winter. I don't need a four season suit, that is why I wear different suiting for different seasons, and this Tweed is excellent for the seasons for which it is designed.

The jacket is true to my American size, but the trousers as slightly different. the very helpful staff member suggested a waist size 2 inches larger than my American size and brought both sizes to the fitting room. Needless to say, he was spot on in his recommendation. I decided to not purchase the matching waistcoat, as I thought it a bit much for me, though it does look ever so smart! Perhaps I will get one at a later date, once I am more accustomed to wear a Tweed Suit. As I mentioned earlier, Tweed suits are not easy to find in America and when you wear one, even without a waistcoat, you will stand out in a crowd, well dressed and comfortable.

I should also not fail mention that when I purchased the suit, the trousers required hemming. I opted for turn ups rather than a straight hem. I mentioend that I was happy to have the finished trousers simply shipped to the States. The staff member checked and said that he perhaps could have the trousers ready that afternoon. Well, I still had a few more days in London, so I said that to avoid any rush on the part of staff, I could pick them up two days later on Monday after noon, which I did. Exceptional service, and another reason to make visiting Cordings a must on any visit to London. 

Cordings make a wide range of items in their House Check Tweed, including caps, bags, breeks, and accessories. They also offer a number of other Tweeds in addition to their House Tweed. I would be remiss in mentioning that they also offer Tweed Action Back jackets designed for shooting, which give you superb ease of movement while at the same time retaining the perfect silhouette associated with a cordings jacket, as well as Tweed shooting waistcoats which feature generous bellow pockets for cartridges, Alcanta gun patches on both sides and inside shoulder insert pockets for the addition of a recoil pad.

Returning to America, I have worn the jacket numerous times alone as a sports jackets, as well as paired with the trousers as a suit, and cannot recall a time when I have received so many compliments on my clothing as I have wearing this suit. I look forward to cooler weather when I can once again find occasion to wear it again.

When I purchased the suit at Cordings in Picadilly, being fitted there, Cordings does advertise a "no quibble returns" so as long as none of the clothing has been altered, you may want to take a chance on an order without visiting London, though I can't imagine not visiting their shop in Piccadilly, as it is an experience not to be missed. Also, note that their website prices includes VAT of 20% so this is removed from your order before payment is made. For those buying in London, they will provide you with the paperwork needed to recover your VAT payment at the airport when you are leaving the UK.

You can find Cordings online here at www.cordings.co.uk.

I eagerly look forward to my next visit to Cording of Piccadilly later this year and will be sure to leave space in my luggage for new acquisitions I am positive I will be making!