Requiem for Bill's Khakis...?

I first discovered Bill's Khakis about 10 years ago at a small shop in Baltimore. A brand that had been around for about 15 years already, located in a renovated hardware factory in downtown Reading, Pennsylvania, it produced quality men's trousers as its backbone. These were American made, with a quality reminiscent of the American khaki uniform trousers of World War II.

But something happened. Most people, probably most customers, didn't even notice, but some of their retailers knew something was afoot. In June 2014 Source Capital, became involved with Bill's Khakis, presumably to provided needed funding. Bill's had begun an aggressive direct to consumer sales and marketing program. Previous to this, Bill's was available at a number of small independent men's clothing stores, but now the customer could order directly from Bill's for the same price. This meant Bill's would get not only their normal wholesale cut, but also the retail profit which is typically 50% of the cost of clothing. Not a bad deal for Bill's, but this meant they were now in direct competition with the very same independent retailers which had built the brand for over 20 years.

I didn't pay much attention personally, that is until this Fall. Suddenly Bill's was on sale. I don't mean a little sale, but over 50% off direct from the manufacturer sales. A pair of $185 trousers for only $85. This meant Bill's was now selling to the public for less than their own retailers (yes some still remain even with the direct sales) could buy the product. December 4th they were selling their original twill trousers for over 65% off retail price. I decided to give it a whirl and tried to order a pair, I mean how could I pass that by. But the website was only showing the trousers for 50% off, not the advertised $45. Later that evening I tried again. The price worked, but once I added the product to the shopping cart, I went to checkout out the the cart was empty. I tried again and again, adding to the cart and then finding it empty. I gave up.

Next day they were on sale again, this time for 70% off. Again the same website results, but now I was really curious...

What I missed on December 4th was the announcement that Source Capital had bought Bill's Khakis for an undisclosed amount according the Reading Eagle. Furthermore Source Capital had partnered with NEJ Inc. NEJ Inc specializes in excess inventory solutions for retailers and brands of apparel.

I then went to the clothing blogs and have found them ripe with rumour to include everything from restructuring to brand liquidation.

According to one online source speaking with an employee over the phone in the warehouse:
- The company was sold about a month ago
- Their previous investor pushed growth aggressively, which led to the explosion of their product line and overall drop in quality
- Bill's had no capital in order to buy the goods and the bottom fell out
- Their previous investor refused to inject any capital into the brand and then the bottom REALLY fell out
- The recent liquidation is an attempt by the new owners to regain whatever capital they can
- The liquidation, coupled with the holidays, has their customer service department completely overloaded. They've just abandoned checking the email account because it's overflowing so don't bother sending a message.
- They have very little left on the shelves. They are completely out of anything in khaki.
All in all, the source seemed hopeful that some semblance of the brand's former glory will be reclaimed once they get over this "hump" and the source believes the new owner understands the market for Bill's.

The fact remains that Bill Thomas seems to have gotten greedy here in a move to increase his profits and distribution at the expense of his long time retail supporters. It will be a shame to see this American made brand disappear if that is the case, all in the name of profit. And it is the customer and the low level employees who will lose in the end.

If the worst of the rumours are true, it may very well be the Requiem for Bill's Khakis. And for that I am sad.

Edit: According to a footnote placed on January 5, 2016 on the Bill's Khaki's website, on November 18, 2015, BK Acquisition, LLC (BK Acquisition) purchased substantially all of the assets of W.Thomas Co.(d/b/a Bills Khakis) through a sale conducted in accordance with Article 9 of the Pennsylvania Uniform Commercial Code (UCC).

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Needlepoint Belts Aren't for Everyone, But We Like it That Way....

Needlepoint belts aren't for everyone, but for those who love them, there is simply no substitute. But they don't come cheaply....

There are three basic routes to getting your own, make it yourself, get someone to make one for you, or buy one. The going rate for a pre-made needlepoint belt is $165 as offered by Smathers and Branson. Sounds expensive?

Smathers and Branson University of Delaware Needlepoint Belt with Monogram

Well let's take a look at the other options.... To make your own needlepoint belt you are probably looking at $150 in materials and in the neighborhood of 100 hours of labour. Think about how much your time is worth and we are talking about a pretty expensive belt in terms of materials and time, not to mention the practice needed before even attempting such a project. Of course if you are very fortunate to have someone make one for you, you have to remember how much the loved one has spent in time and effort to make a belt for you.

So when we look at the other options, $165 is not really a bad option and their "stock" options for belts are wide and varied, not to mention "custom" belts which they make for a variety of retailers around the country. Now surely you can't get the true custom belt like you might from a family member or girlfriend, but those options exist at some level with Smathers and Branson with their monogrammed belts and custom "life belts" both available with with additional charges.

Smathers and Branson Custom Belt for Yoicks!

These belts are made in Vietnam where they pay women more than the prevailing wages there to make these needlepoint belts for the American market.

So if you are looking for a special gift for someone, ore something fun to add to your own wardrobe, consider Smathers and Branson and their needlepoint belts.

For more information see Smathers and Branson

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The Foxhall Farm Team Chase... When The Steeplechase Season Begins in Maryland...

In less than two weeks, the Maryland Timber Racing Season will begin with that quiet and quite unknown race, the Foxhall Farm Cup Team Chase. A very different race from what most racing enthusiasts are used to seeing, this race is perhaps best known for the mammoth team trophy which dwarfs most other racing trophies.

2011 Foxhall Farm Cup Team Chase Winning Team from the Green Spring Valley Hunt

This race began in 1920 over timber at the Monkton, Maryland home of renowned American sportsman, Foxhall P. Keene. His intent was to encourage participation in the sport. The race is run by teams of three, all regular followers of a recognized hunt, with strong representation from the Maryland and Pennsylvania Hunts. To honor the winning team, Keene commissioned a challenge cup which was to be held by the victorious hunt until the next renewal if the race. Made of sterling silver, it is one of the most impressive trophies in the sport.

Taking place early in the season, it is regularly postponed a week, as it was this year, or even cancelled by late arriving snows, but look forward to once again attending this year. When I last attended, the race was held on a brisk sunny early Spring afternoon at the Green Spring Valley Hunt Club, current holders of the trophy. I can't think of a more perfect place to be on such a spring day, but this is certainly not a race for those more familiar with races as a social event. The "glamour crowd" tends to pass this event by and the tents and lush tailgate spreads are no where to be seen. There is no champagne. It's a very simple affair and I can't say that I miss any of that at all.

Retired Lawyer and former steeplechase jockey Turney McKnight explained the race best in a 2009 Washington Post article, "the Foxhall race is really more of a training ground." "The jockeys want to practice but not overexercise the steeds," McKnight further explained.

2011 Foxhall Farm Cup Team Chase

Many of the horses which run here will be seen competing in Maryland's triple crown of Steeplechase, My Lady's Manor, Grand National and Maryland Hunt Cup, as well as races further afield like Carolina Cup and Virginia Gold Cup.

So whether you position yourself at the start/finish area, or at one of the fences along the course, you will be treated to a chance to watch some beautiful horses in some beautiful hunt country.

While attendance at the race is free, the Green Spring Valley Hunt were wonderful hosts after the race, with a donation request from non-participants.

This might not be a race that gets much attention, it has definitely earned a place upon my calender and where I will be found on Sunday, March 22nd, if the weather and my busy Spring schedule permits.

Check out the Maryland Steeplechase Association website for more information:
http://www.marylandsteeplechaseassociation.com/race-meets/the-foxhall-farm-trophy-chase/

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